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As concerned food consumers, we need to stay vigilant about the edible products we buy. Take honey for instance: did you know that most brands, including those labeled as pure honey, are diluted with high-fructose corn syrup?
And sadly now we are finding that extra-virgin olive oil is another common grocery item that has deceptive labeling. (For children with corn allergies who may not know it, this is very problematic).
It has been suggested that some olive oils are adulterated oils. Even if they come from Italy. There is apparently mass corruption in this industry. Mafia copies of fine olive oil, wine and cheese have fueled an explosion of food crime in Italy. It’s estimated to be a $16 billion-a-year enterprise. The Italians call what is happening “Agromafia,” and it’s a scandal for a people whose cuisine is considered a national treasure.
Exposing Widespread “AgroMafia” Corruption
You might remember the 60 Minutes news presentation “AgroMafia” food fraud where they exposed the Mafia extending into agricultural products, especially olive oil, on which the mob makes huge profits by exporting imitations.
Journalist Tom Mueller who lived in Italy for 20 years and knows investigators and food producers, admitted:
“You in many cases are getting lower grade oil that has been blended with some good extra virgin olive oil…you’re sometimes getting deodorized oil. They blend it with some oil that has some character to give it a little color, a little flavor…and they sell that as extra virgin. It’s illegal – it happens all the time.
“Extra virgin must come from the first press of olives and be free of additives. It’s fruity, aromatic and has a spicy finish. The best can sell for $50-a-gallon…but a fake costs just seven dollars to make. The profit margin can be three times better than cocaine.”
Tom Mueller also stated that, “Easily half of the bottles that are sold as extra virgin in supermarkets in Italy do not meet the legal grades for extra virgin oil.”
Testing Olive Oil Companies: The Good and the Bad
Researchers at the University of California, Davis stated:
“Our laboratory tests found that samples of imported olive oil labeled as “extra virgin” and sold at retail locations in California often did not meet international and US standards. These failed samples had defective flavors such as rancid, fusty, and musty. Our chemical testing indicated that the samples failed extra virgin standards for reasons that include one or more of the following:
- oxidation by exposure to elevated temperatures, light, and/or aging
- adulteration with cheaper refined olive oil
- poor quality oil made from damaged and overripe olives, processing flaws, and/or improper oil storage
The UC Davis researchers found that 69% of imported olive oil labeled “extra virgin” had been compromised.
These Are the Olive Oil Brands That Failed the Test (see Table 3 in UC, Davis paper and here):
Carapelli
Mezzetta
Pompeian
Mazola
Primadonna
Colavita
Sasso
Antica Badia
Star
Whole Foods
Filippo Berio
Safeway
Coricelli
Bertolli – there has been confusion about this company. Real Food For Life gives the Bertolli Organic a thumbs up.
The Following Olive Oil Brands Are Trustworthy & Good:
-Lucero
-McEvoy Ranch Organic
-Corto
-Omaggio
-Bariani
-California Olive Ranch
-Lucini
-Ottavio
-Cobram Estate
-Olea Estates – is from an extremely reliable source. This delicious oil is grown on a single family farm in Greece and is excellent.
-Kirkland Organic
And interestingly, Consumer Reports, 2012, published results of a taste test of 138 bottles of extra virgin olive oil from 23 manufacturers. These oils were sourced from the US, Argentina, Greece, Chile, and Italy. They found that olive oil produced in California exceeded those from Italy.
Consider buying EVOO from Greece, Argentina, Spain, Australia, Tunisia, and other countries that have small family-owned companies.
Two highest scoring oils (both from California) from their testing were:
- Trader Joe’s California Estate
- McEvoy Ranch
Can You Test Olive Oil To See If It Is Fake – or Not?
It has been said that you can also test the olive oil by putting the bottle in the fridge for half an hour. The premise behind this test is that extra-virgin olive oil is comprised of mostly monounsaturated fats which solidify when cold. But testing it in the refrigerator has been debunked, and there are 2 reasons why the test will not always work.
Update: 6/19/19: In the interest of fairness to all these companies, the deeper I get into investigating this, the more confusing it becomes. 60 Minutes tells us one thing while The North American Olive Oil Association states that the UC Davis report is ambiguous and misleading. I cannot give recommendations, but urge everyone to do their own research to discover the truth company by company! There have been lawsuits and some companies have changed for the better since then (reflected in their increased testing and certifications).
Labeling to Look For:
Look for official governmental seals of approval on the label such as “Australian Extra Virgin Certified” and (COOC) “California Olive Oil Council Certified.”
Olive Oil Fraud In Italy:
Police Uncover 7,000-Ton Olive Oil Fraud in Italy
Report Warns of White Collar Crimes and ‘Mafia 3.0’
“When I grew up in Italy in the 1950s, it was still very agricultural. Food was very important; produce was very important. Everyone made their own olive oil. It took me a long time after I moved here to understand that Americans are much further away from their food.” ~Isabella Rossellini
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Thanks for reading!
Robyn Gibson says
Thank you VERY much for this article!
vicki says
The UC Davis paper is nine years old. I wonder if there have been any changes in the list since it was published. I did some searching and couldn’t find the answer, but did learn that due to a severe winter in 2018 and the spread of bacteria that is killing olive trees in Italy, there is expected to be a shortage of olive oil from that region and the price is predicted to double. Sadly, I expect that will encourage even more fraud. Also, the Italian government to trying to get farmers to spray chemicals on their trees to kill the bugs that spread the bacteria.
Lauren says
What about O-live?
Jacqueline says
Lauren, I would contact the company since O-live is not mentioned in the study at UC Davis.
Julie says
They only source from Chile, who produces good oil (not sure O-live source). Southern Hemi crushes in spring-April, May, June
Julie says
You DO NOT nor does it say anything about an oils freshness to put it in the fridge!!! False, false, false!!!
Jacqueline says
Julie, this is not saying the refrigerator test is for “freshness” at all, but if it has other oils added to it that will not thicken and become cloudy when chilled… please re-read the sentence.
Julie says
It may very well be “extra virgin” with no other oils blended in, but just because it congeals means nothing. The oil could still be old and therefore inedible.
Dawn says
It’s a test to see if your “olive oil” is just olive oil. Not to keep it fresh.
julie says
I get it… my point is that who cares if it’s extra virgin olive oil if it’s NOT FRESH? Did you know that standards say the “extra virgin” only has to be 3%? And that could have been pressed 2 years before they even bottled it. You’re welcome to buy subpar “extra virgin”, put it in your fridge to see if it thickens, then pull it out and use it. If it’s not freshly harvested and freshly pressed, it won’t matter if it’s extra virgin or not, cuz chances are you’re using rancid oil. Also there are many more countries besides Italy who are winning international acclaim- Chile, Australia, Spain, Croatia, S Africa…There are SO many things wrong with your cherry picking of an old olive oil article, this is just one of many myths. Do more research before you keep leading readers astray with poor research and opinion articles fueled by corporate sponsorship. Or don’t… I won’t respond again.
Jacqueline says
So how does one find all “fresh” first pressed olive oil that is sold in U.S., Julie? Is there such a thing? And if so, what do you recommend?
Julie says
Please go to Facebook or Google Veronica Foods. Find a store near you- NOT a franchise, these are local, independent retailers, your neighbors… you can taste the oil before buying. Harvest daye, crush date, the producer name, all the chemistry is right there for you to see. Andctaste. VF source from both hemisphere’s, so you have fresh-pressed, EVOO twice a year from producers all over the world.
vicki says
Julie, to what were you referring when you stated “Did you know that standards say the “extra virgin” only has to be 3%?”
The USDA standards require extra virgin olive oil to be 100% EVOO, unless other components are listed in the ingredients. The only reference to 3% that I can find is the FDA ruling that virgin olive oil be below 3% oleic acid (that’s a good thing), and extra virgin olive oil be even lower.
Rhonda S Devine says
Thank you for this article Jacqueline–olive oil is something, along with honey, that I make sure I buy quality over price. My go to
source is Jovial Foods where there oil is produced on a small farm in Italy. I love its taste and many times I am able to get it right after it has been harvested and freshly pressed. I buy it online. It is good to see the other brands listed that are reputable for those days I run out and need a local source.
JeanineS says
The fridge test for olive oil purity has been debunked a long time ago. There are no simple tests that a regular person can perform to check to see if their olive oil has been adulterated….I truly wish there was one. Checking to see if it gets cloudy when cold, solidifies when cold, or if you can put it in the oil with a candle wick and have it make a good candle (& not smoke) have all been debunked….as have others….
Jacqueline says
Thanks for the extra information, JeanineS! I changed it in the post bc of your information. 🙂
Sandra says
My filippo berio extra virgin and olive both say 100% pure, and have seals that say they meet or exceed the international olive councils standards for quality and authenticity. Maybe there have been changes?
Jacqueline says
Yes, Sandra, the Italian government is putting pressure (the top picture on that post is from the court) on the producers. I hope so! 😀
vicki says
It just breaks my heart to see the adulteration of olive oil and honey –these biblical symbols of peace and blessing.
Jacqueline says
Wow, yes, Vicki! I hadn’t thought of it that way!
Satan hates what is good and what reflects God’s bounty and grace to us!
Marcus Hope says
Go by taste! For what it is worth, we use Il Casolare if we cannot find Palestinian Olive Oil.
Louie says
Thank you Jaqueline for bringing this to everyone’s attention with regard to healthy choices in our food supply!
You were right on about the extra virgin olive oil “scandal” as has been reported elsewhere. Your suggestions to buy from small Producers is a good one, however, this is a pretty expensive option (for purity and freshness it is the ONLY option)! Our company does exactly that, however, our clients some time hesitate in spending the amount needed to get the genuine article. This is the result of supermarket prices and fraudulent marketing.
Some of the comments I read have tried to solve the problem by buying large amounts of extra virgin olive oil when visiting an area where the oil is produced. This unfortunately does not solve the problem, when purchasing it in bulk, the oil is sure to go RANCID in a very short period of time. The consumer may not even realize this dilemma because they are used to eating rancid olive oils! Our small Producers, using the very latest technical equipment and production methods will always place inert gas (Argon or Nitrogen) in the bottles to preserve freshness and not allow oxidation. As you might expect, this is a somewhat costly process, but will surprise and delight the consumer.
Jacqueline says
Louie, I am so glad you shared this here! Such good knowledge for consumers!